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Are you itchy ?
In 2003, the European legislation on cosmetics introduced the obligation to indicate the presence of 26 potentially allergenic molecules on product labels (elements present in concentrations greater than 10ppm for a non-rinsable product and greater than 100ppm for a rinsable product). The method developed and validated at the central department of analysis for the quantification, at low regulatory contents, of these molecules is now applied to washing liquids, detergents, perfumes and cosmetics as part of analytical services…
Some molecules, such as furocoumarins, present in significant amounts in many plant extracts, particularly essential oils of citrus (lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, bitter orange), are potentially photosensitizing with a risk of skin reaction. And yet essential oils are heavily used in the production of cosmetics and perfumes. The central department of analysis has drawn up the synthesis of these molecules in order to establish the analytical standards necessary for their assay, which the trade was lacking. It has also developed a method of analysis that allows the separation and assay (down to 0.1ppm) of these photosensitizing molecules in the complex matrices of cosmetics and perfumes.
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