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Cosmetic cream : shark or olive ?

Squalane is widely used in cosmetic formulations and is industrially produced via hydrogenation of squalene, the naturally occurring molecule, which is itself derived from shark liver oil or from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. Although the purification and refining processes are different and more costly in the case of olive squalene, for label, charter and environmental protection (shark conservation) reasons, some companies do not use raw materials of animal origin and wish to certify the plant origin of squalane.

The central department of analysis has developed a method of analysis based on the measurement of ¹³C/¹²C isotopic ratios so as to differentiate the origin of squalane. This method is now applied to commercial cosmetics for national and international companies. It is currently the only method of analysis that allows the plant origin of squalane to be certified and any fraud to be detected.

Service central d’analyse, CNRS

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Cosmetic cream : shark or olive ?