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Makeup with medical virtues

Most often lead-based, Egyptian make-up consisted of a mixture of black galena (a lead sulphide) and white substances, natural or synthesized from lead salts in particular. In their writings, Greek and Roman doctors underlined the important role of these substances in eye and wound treatments. At a time when lead is better known for its potential toxicity, this use is surprising.

To better understand this practice, researchers have tried to evaluate the impact of very small quantities of lead on a skin cell. The result : in very small doses, lead does not kill the cell. It causes the production of a molecule, nitric oxide, which acts both as a bactericide and as a messenger of the immune system, and also plays an essential role in regulating blood pressure.

Conclusion : the tear fluid of an Egyptian wearing black eye make-up was enriched in Pb2+ ions following the slight dissolution of the make-up, which would have created ad hoc bactericidal conditions, stimulated the production of macrophages and promoted their passage through the wall of capillaries and blood vessels. This chronic response therefore produced a formidable environment for any bacteria that might accidentally be projected inside. This would explain the medical properties of make-up produced by the ancient Egyptians. We can now better understand why they considered their cosmetics as a means to transfer the protective powers of the gods Horus and Ra onto themselves.